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New Zealand Scenery

 

Introduction              Photo Listing

Morning at Lake Waikaremoana
Morning at Lake Waikaremoana
View from the kitchen/dining room verandah
at the Dept. of Conservation Hostel at the Waikaremoana township

 

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New Zealand:   This is a beautiful country, one where it is possible to leave behind the crowded and noisy cities and urban areas, and escape to the hills and beaches — many of which are in pristine condition, unspoilt. There are some vast "wilderness areas" — areas protected by law from exploitation in any fashion, areas where all you may leave behind are your footsteps, and all you may take with you (apart from your rubbish) are photographs.

New Zealand is a country of contrasts — from lush semi-tropical jungle in the North Island and podocarp rain forest on the south-west of the South Island (both sometimes in wildly mountainous terrain) to gently rolling, green, grass-covered fields to alpine semi-arid dessert to regions of boiling mudpools and geysers. These hydrothermal areas are widespread throughout New Zealand, but the most notable and well-known is, of course, Rotorua, and includes one famous locality "Tikitere" — very aptly named in English as "Hell's Gate".

It is a place of great contrasts in short distances.  It is a country that cannot be seen in "a couple of weeks".  You need a couple of months at the very least, and even then you will just be skimming the surface. 

It is a country of many nationalities.  It is a land whose natives were fierce warriors (a feature on which they pride themselves, e.g. the "Haka", once a war challenge is now used as a welcoming ceremony!), a people who only relatively recently gave up cannibalism, but who can be charming and musical -- a trait they share with natives from all over the South Pacific. 

The following photographs were taken by me over a period of many years (some show discolouration due to age) and using a variety of films and cameras.

 

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List of Photos 

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Drum Head Fern
Fur Seal at Kaikoura
Omapere
The Pinnacles
Opoutere
Huka Falls
Mt Ruapehu
Green & Blue Lakes
Lake Waikaremoana & Aniwaniwa
Driftwood at Hawkes Bay
Buller Valley
Mt Rolleston
Shotover & Skippers
Franz Joseph Glacier

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Flora & Fuana

drum fern.jpg (42114 bytes) "Drum Head Fern"

An impressive looking plant in the wild with the stalks coming up steeply and forming a deep "V" shaped head. Possibly nicknamed "Drum Head Fern" because of the unfolding stalk which looks like a stick used to play a drum.   List 


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"Fur Seal at Kaikoura"

Fur Seal basking in the sun on the rocks at the southern end of the Kaikoura township foreshore. At present TOTALLY PROTECTED.

Arctocephalus forsteri is peculiar to New Zealand and is the only seal to breed north of the 48th parallel in the South Island. (48 degrees south is approximate).  Fertilisation generally occurs only a few days after parturition, but implantation of the fertilised egg is generally deferred for several weeks, the fertilised egg being carried in the uterus. Gestation period is about 9 to 10 months.

When born, the pup weighs approximately 45kg and is about 1.25 metres long from nose to tail. It doubles its weight in about 11 days and is weened in about 2 to 3 weeks. Cows and young bulls seldom exceed 1.5 metres and an adult bull will normally be between 1.8 and 2.1 metres long. The fur is grey-brown with a dense buff, stone coloured or reddish under-pelt, nose and flippers are dark brown shading to black.

When walking along the rocky foreshore beneath the southern headland at Kaikoura, care should be taken not to come too close to basking animals, especially not to pass between an animal and its young, or between and animal and the nearby water if there is any alternative. They can move remarkably fast and have a vicious bite. (A friend has lacerations on his upper thigh to prove it!)

A point of interest about Kaikoura. While I was there, a particular stratum in projecting rock was pointed out to me as being that belonging to the period of the dinosaur extinction -- the KT (Cretaceous/Tertiary) boundary about 64 million years ago -- and that it has the tell-tale signature of a high level of Iridium in it. It was a thin (about 5mm thick) layer of clay with some small sooty specks in it sandwiched between limestone strata. Sorry:- I don't know enough geology to describe it more and I didn't take notes at the time.    List

 

 
Scenery 

omapere.jpg (34109 bytes)

 

"Omapere, Hokianga Harbour, Northland"

Omapere and Opononi are small townships situated almost at the mouth of the Hokianga Harbour. It was at the beach of Opononi that the famous dolphin" Opo" in 1955/56 swam and cavorted to the delight of many.

Notable here are the sand dunes on the northern shore. These are several hundred feet high and the locals advise they can tell what the coming weather is going to be from their appearance. I have noticed the colours do seem to change with impending weather.

This photograph is actually three joined. They were taken from the grounds of the Omapere Tourist Hotel right on the shoreline. You can just see the surf breaking on the harbour bar. 

This harbour looks peaceful, but is actually rather treacherous.  Winds can whip the waters up very quickly and there have been several fatalities involving the unwary.  Fishing is good.     List

coromandel - pinnacles.jpg (17999 bytes)

 

"The Pinnacles" in the Coromandel Range

In the background in this photograph, visible near Hikuai (State Highway 25), are a number of sharply figured peaks and are the highly eroded remains of volcanoes which once made this mountain chain.

Gold and silver were once mined in the Coromandel, and a number of foreign mining companies are again interested in this activity which would be certain to wreak extensive and long-lasting environmental damage.

Local inhabitants and land owners, backed and assisted by many other New Zealanders who are interested in protecting the environment, are endeavour and continue to endeavour to have these mining applications turned down. It is to be hoped that the "Green" Party, whose main electioneering platform was "Protection of the Environment",  lend their new-found influence to this protection. (It could be argued by some that if they do so, it is to protect "the green" that is being grown illicitly in "them thar hills".)

Semi-precious stones, such as opal, have also been found here in small quantities. These semi-precious stones, as well as the precious metals are often found together in certain volcanic areas.     List

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Opoutere — Wharekawa Estuary

Opoutere, on the Wharekawa Harbour, east coast of Coromandel Peninsula, approximately 20km north of Whangamata. This is the view (admittedly at extreme low tide) of part of the estuary from the back door of the YHA Youth Hostel; At full tide the water completely fills the estuary and laps at the edge of the bank below the road (out of sight below the bushes in the foreground); It is a beautiful place to go to and relax in — and to watch the ever-changing picture of nature. It is one of my favourite places.;

The harbour is protected from the ocean by a thin bank of sand (a sand spit) which can be seen in the central distance. The estuary empties to the Pacific Ocean through its entrance to the south (right) of the sand bank, below the low headland.

This sandbank is the location of a bird sanctuary where dotterels and oyster-catchers are attempting to stave off annihilation; Natural hazards, like high seas washing over the breeding ground and introduced pests like stoats and ferrets, make their continued existence somewhat precarious. Added to their problems is the disturbance caused by people walking through the sanctuary or along the water's edge — despite signs periodically advising the area is "closed". Some of them even take dogs!!!!! Some people are stupid and uncaring!!!

On a clear afternoon it is extremely pleasant to sit on the porch at the Hostel and watch the sun go down — well not the sun itself, but as it goes down it lights up the sand spit with a golden glow which can contrast rather pleasantly against the blue of the ocean and sky.

At night the roar of the surf, even though about 1km distant, can be heard — more especially if the wind is from the east. During the winter too, this can be a place in which to relax. I have spent several such weekends here with the rain pouring down in torrents and with the area shrouded in low cloud — looking out at it from the comfort of the lounge warmed by the heat from the pot-belly stove! Ah, comfort!  

Aylsa is currently the warden-manager of the Hostel and was appointed mid-2002 following the retirement of the previous warden-manager, Karen, who had been here in this "Garden of Eden"  for about 25 years!!!

The YHA Youth Hostel is not the only accommodation at Opoutere. A little further along the road, past the turn-off to the car-park for the pedestrian access to the beach, is the Opoutere Motor Camp and there are one or two small private establishments offering some accommodation. There is no public motor access to the beach. The foreshore is a forest reserve with a number of pedestrian paths through to the beach. Visitors to Opoutere should also note there are are neither public shopping nor banking facilities, but the Hostel and the Motor Camp both have some food supplies available for their own booked-in customers only. Use of the YHA Hostel and its facilities is reserved for members of the International Youth Hostels Federation (including, of course, its NZ members) but new members are welcomed — if there is room! It is very popular, especially in holiday periods and long weekends, so booking well ahead is imperative in these periods.     List

huka falls.jpg (13734 bytes) Huka Falls

The Huka Falls are impressive at any time and are the largest falls on the Waikato River. 

They are situated about 5km north (downstream) from the river's control gates at Taupo and are formed where the river debouches over a 10 metre high cliff from its narrow, 200 metre long, rock-bound channel. 

This is a favourite stopping place for visitors and there is ample parking close by. There is a swing bridge over the chasm to allow access to the viewing platforms on the western side and also to walking tracks in the area. On the western side it is possible to walk down to the water's edge upstream of the channel.

Caution:
The water looks attractive and peaceful, but that appearance is deceptive. Do not swim there or fall in. The current even very close to the shore-line is fierce and a swim in the river, channel and cauldron is certainly not recommended for safety. Even on the white-water rafting scale of danger it would be "over the top".     List

mt ruapehu2.jpg (19034 bytes) Mt Ruapehu

Mt Ruapehu 2,797 metres, is an active volcano and a popular skiing destination. This photograph of the monolith was taken from about 2km south of Waiouru, south of the mountain,

Although Mt Ruapehu is an active volcano — as it proved for two years in succession 2 - 3 years ago when it erupted dramatically showering ash as far away as Napier, and ruining the winter economy of the local businesses — it is very popular with the skiing fraternity. There are three major skiing fields:- Whakapapa Field (on the northern slopes and accessable via the Chateau Road), Turoa Field (on the south west, accessible from Ohakune) and Tukino Ski Field (on the south east, accessible from the Desert Road north of Waiouru).

It is possible to climb to the rim of the crater (sometimes to take the crawler) and look at the Crater Lake. This lake is a body of hot water in the crater and is mildly acidic from the natural sulphuric acid given off by the volcano (not adviseable for swimming).

On Christmas Eve, 1953, part of the crater wall gave way giving vent to a sudden discharge of water from the Crater Lake. This, tearing down the mountainside through the Whangaehu Glacier and into the Whangaehu River formed a lahar which tore away the pylons and supports for a railway bridge near Tangiwai. Nearly 50 metres of railway decking and rail was torn away and before the alarm could be given the Wellington-Auckland night-express train raced onto the bridge and into the abyss to plunge to their doom. According to the information in the NZ Encyclopaedia, out of 235 passengers known to have been on the train only 134 survived. A total of 131 bodies were recovered and 20 other passengers were never accounted for. (I visited the site a few years ago — it was then tranquil with wild-flowers blossoming and I found it impossible to imagine the violence of 1953.)     List

green blue lakes.jpg (30599 bytes) Green & Blue Lakes

The Green & Blue Lakes are two small lakes near Rotorua (at the southern end of the Whakarewarewa State Forest Park) and are separated from each other by a small spit of land. 

On good, clear days Lake Rotokakahi (Green lake) has a distinctive hue, giving rise to its name. Similarly Lake Tikitapu (Blue Lake).    List

waikaremoana picnic.jpg (32729 bytes) Aniwaniwa Falls at Lake Waikaremoana

Lake Waikaremoana's Aniwaniwa.Picnic Grounds are close to the Department of Conservation Visitors' and Education Centre at Aniwaniwa, on Lake Waikaremoana.

Aniwaniwa Falls are visible in the background through the toi toi (pampas grass). Toi Toi grows in abundance in most parts of the North Island.    List

driftwood.jpg (20414 bytes) Driftwood in Hawkes Bay

The Driftwood you see here is on a beach near Waihau, a short distance north of the mouth of the Mohaka River in Hawkes Bay.

Heavy rainfall in the hinterland can cause flooding which uproots trees and washes them down the local rivers, notably the Mohaka and Wairoa Rivers. Local coastal currents wash them northwards, some to be left on the local beaches.    List

buller valley.jpg (24533 bytes) Buller Valley

The Buller River from its source at Lake Rotoiti, follows the Buller Valley in a generally south-western direction approximately 170km to flow into the Tasman Sea at Wesport. In the course of its travels it traverses the north-western spine of the South Island and generally in steep bush covered valleys. In a few locations, notably near Murchison and Inangahua, the valley bottoms are wide and gravel floored.

It is some years (c. 1983) since this photograph was taken and I did not note its exact location at the time. It was taken through the window of a tourist coach travelling from Nelson to Westport (road on southern side of valley) and memory "tells" me it was near Murchison.

Further back, where the river was flowing in a much steeper and narrower valley, the coach driver made some mention of the river being affected by a large earthquake they had had only a few years earlier.    List

mt rolleston.jpg (24930 bytes) Mt Rolleston

Mt Rolleston is situated near the western end of Arthur's Pass on Provincial State Highway 73 close by where the road descends to Otira.

This mountain is also close to the township of Arthur's Pass and seems to be a favourite peak for many visting budding mountaineers to attempt.

For those interested in a pleasant walk, the valley leading to it from the road is relatively level though rough underfoot and has much beautiful alpine flora. Watch out for the Kea, New Zealand's mischievous "mountain parrot". This "level" walking track is a pleasant change from many in the region which tend to be somewhat "vertical".

All alpine endeavours — whether climbing or walking — should not be taken lightly and everyone should be well prepared for conditions which may change dramatically and extremely rapidly.     List

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Skippers & Shotover

Skippers & the Shotover River valleys were the scene of one of the gold rushes of two centuries ago

Nowadays the Shotover roars to the exhaust of jet boats carrying thrill-seeking passengers. A few people are believed still to find a little gold in the river deposits.

The lower composite photograph shows horse treking on the land above the river. These horses were from "Moonlight Stables", then (late 60's or early 70's) said to be owned by John Rowles. This was my first time on a horse. Fortunately it (the horse -- I don't know about me) was tame.      List

franz joseph.jpg (17703 bytes)

Franz Joseph Glacier

Franz Joseph Glacier is the largest glacier on the western side of the Southern Alps and is about 11km long.

I visited again in January 2003 and found that since this photo was taken the glacier has retreated quite a distance (about half a kilometre) due to lack of snow-fall in the neve above.  This is a regular feature of all glaciers, but Franz Joseph responds very quickly to conditions due to the steepness of its course.  List

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Copyright © 2002 Alan T.R. Torrance, Auckland, New Zealand.
Site created, written and maintained by Alan Torrance
This page last updated 2nd February 2005