•  By now the plants will have finished their flowering, so now we can anticipate and plan towards next seasons flowers. On small plants, do not leave the spikes on for more than 2 to 3 weeks after the last flower is open. If you let them remain longer, they can utilise the stored plant food which the plant ;uses better in growing and forming new pseudobulbs, which in turn ensures more and better future flowers.
  •  All routine repotting should have been completed by now. The aim should have been to get the plants into new pots and media as early as possible, once the new growth in the spring is apparent, to ensure the new seasons growth advances as fast and as strongly as possible. If for any reason some plants still require repotting, you may wish to postpone this until February/March if they are in full growth.
  • To ensure strong growth, the application of a high nitrogen fertiliser is desirable. This can be wither applied as a dry mix to the top of the pot, or as a liquid mix watered in.;if you use a liquid fertiliser, remember to water first to get the mix dampened, then apply.

  • At this time of the year, cymbidiums do not appreciate a hot dry atmosphere, and increased ventilation must be provided. They must receive a fall in night temperatures if flower bud initiation is to be successful. If you grow in a glasshouse or similar structure, during the hot weather ensure plenty of ventilation is given, at least during the day, and later in the month even during the night. The plants will, however, really appreciate being outside, where they can receive plenty of sun and fresh moving air. A shadehouse - say with 30% shade can be appropriate, although they can do just as well in the open. They like dappled mid-day sun, so under a tree but receiving the shade from the outer branches is ideal. Ensure they are protected from the intense mid-day sun, but they really appreciate the early morning and late afternoon sunshine.

  • At this time of the year, through to easrly Autumn, the initiation of next seasons flowers takes place, This requires low summer night temperatures, below 10-12 degrees celsius for cymbidiums. This cannot be provided in an enclosed growing area, and failure to allow for this temperature fall is a prime cause for non flowering of cymbidiums. Refer to Flower Initiation page for general discussion of this topic relevant to other genera. Research work has shown that the effect of the low temperature initiation of flowers can be enhanced if high light levels can be also provided. This generally can be ensured when the plants are grown in the open outside,;;inside high light usually means higher temperatures which in itself interferes with successful bud initiation. If you want maximum flowering next year, do not neglect your plants now, otherwise you may be disappointed in the results.

  • The plants must receive plenty of water at this stage of the year, but as well must not be watered too frequently otherwise their roots will be killed. Most cymbidiums are from areas subject to the summer monsoons, and therefore naturally are subjected to warm wet summers, and cool but dry winters. Water once the top 25 to 50 mm of mix is dry in the larger pots. This may be every 7 to 10 days for larger plants, but will be more frequent for those in smaller pots. The frequency of watering will vary depending on the growing area, potting mix used, weather conditions, size and vigor of he plants, and does require individual assessment of each grower, as we each grow our plants somewhat differently.

  • At this time of the year red spider and red spider mite can rapidly become problems, As they ;thrive under arid conditions, the maintenance of more humid conditions can reduce their ravages, although the application of a chemical insecticide may be required..



Site established 9th May 1998