Also here is the Waitomo Caves Museum, one of the best small museums in the country. It has an impressive collection of fossils found in the King Country and its dioramas are excellent.

More than 160 King Country caves have provided the fossil remains of 53 land and two marine species of birds, many now extinct. From the predominance of forest dwellers among these birds, together with the presence of creatures such as land snails, scientists conclude that from at least 25,000 years ago this area was covered in mixed podocarp-broadleaf forest. The bones of marine birds such as petrels provide evidence that before humans arrived with their mammalian predators these birds bred in the inland forested ranges.

Archaeological evidence also suggests that this is one of the last areas in the North Island where moa survived. They vanished first from the north and then progressively became extinct southwards, and simultaneously from the coast towards the interior.

Dr Phil Millener of the National Museum in Wellington compiled a list of extinct animals which is extensive and sobering 11 moa, a pelican, a swan, two geese, four ducks, two eagles, a hawk, five rails, an Aptornis, a snipe, an owlet-nightjar, a crow and three wrens - and these are only birds. Indications are that frogs and a lizard might have disappeared too.

Back on State Highway 3, and 12 kilometres south of Waitomo Caves tumoff, one reaches Te Kuiti and, although most of the birds here are common species, the town does hold one of the country's stranger bird records - a lesser frigate bird was recovered nearby, a wind-blown tropical stray far from its home range in the central Pacific.

South of Te Kuiti the road forks. State Highway 30 heads south-east towards Mangakino. Along this road you first pass through farming country, much of which is degenerating into scrub. Paradise ducks, pied stilts and white-faced herons are all fairly numerous in the damper areas, although there are periodic shooting drives against the ducks as farmers say they foul pastures.

A good place to stop is at the Mangaokewa Scenic Reserve which, although a little rugged, supports a number of birds, both native and exotic. Continuing towards Mangakino brings you to Kopaki, named for another of our lost birds, the laughing owl - although the name should more properly be spelt kopake. Also known to some Maori as whekau, this bird had developed long, sturdy legs for chasing its prey on foot most un-owl-like behaviour. It ate earthworms, insects, heads and small birds and is best remembered for its 'doleful shrieks' which were heard incessantly on rainy nights and which were apparently not even remotely like a laugh.

Another main route south is along State Highway 4 towards Taumarunui. Taumarunui was once the terminus for launch services up the Wanganui River but these have been replaced by jet boats. They provide good opportunities to see the birdlife along the river, at their stopping points, although predators have decimated the bird population since the 1920s and 1930s when the launch trips were most popular.