ontinuing along the south coast brings you to
the beautiful Tautuku Bay. The golden crescent of sand is separated from dense forest by a
narrow strip of scrub and the contrast between sand and forest, all framed by a blue sky
on a fine day, is glorious.
Opposite the beach, about halfway along, is a track that leads to a
beautiful pool in a splendid sylvan setting, rather grandly known as Lake Wilkie. Just
across from the Lake Wilkie signpost can be found the Taurekei Forest Reserve. This is 550
hectares of choice bush which has been preserved by the Forest and Bird Society.
Continuing along State Highway 92 through Quarry Hills, Tokanui and
Fortrose brings you at last out onto the extensive plains surrounding Invercargill, and
only a short distance from the Waituna wetlands, regarded as among the most important in
the country. Here, just a few metres from the southern ocean, grows one of the finest
assemblages of alpine plants to be found, including cushion bog, creeping lily,
comb-sedge, purple orchids and bladderworts. These are all plants you would normally
expect to see high in the mountains, but it does not take long to find out why they are
growing here. Stand still for a few minutes and you will catch a full blast of wind which
feels as though it is straight off the polar cap. - Waituna is probably best known for its
birdlife. In summer as many as 17 migratory wader species come here from the Northern
Hemisphere and together with these are numerous residents. Considering that Waituna is
about as far south as a migratory wader can get, the number of rarities which show up here
is extraordinary. Local ornithologists have seen in recent years Mongolian dotterels, grey
plovers, sanderlings and Asiatic whimbrels - all rare visitors to New Zealand and seldom
recorded elsewhere.
Nearby Invercargill is more interesting than beautiful. It is known for
its invigorating climate and the wide streets have been cunningly designed so that less
robust northerners can enjoy the wind to the full. There are numerous parks and gardens
and in less bracing weather wandering among them is pleasant. The Southland Museum has an
interesting collection of fossilised logs and in the museum itself is something called a
Tuatarium which is self-explanatory.
Invercargill is the centre of an extensive mixed-farming area. In
spring there are lambs in their thousands but these are subject to the vagaries of the
Southland weather. The last time I travelled through Southland was by train during a
particularly long spell of wet and cold weather and dozens of lambs were dead in the
paddocks.
There are numerous rivers throughout Southland and these are popular
with whitebaiters in the spring who catch these tiny fish as they make their way upstream.
They are also popular with many birds who come from the north each year to breed.
Spur-wing plovers first appeared hereabouts on their arrival from Australia about 40 years
ago and have since spread northwards. Magpies are, on the other hand, spreading south and
have in recent years extended their range into Southland. They are aggressive and
predatory birds and with luck Foveaux Strait will act as a barrier to their colonising
Stewart Island.