ncreasing numbers of trampers are now coming to this region, drawn by the large number of walking tracks (many following tracks first opened up by goldminers and explorers). The best known is the track named for the artist and explorer Charles Heaphy, which runs from near to north of Karamea on the West Coast. Although the Heaphy Track is generally regarded as 'easy', take care as a number of trampers have disappeared along it.

This is an unstrenuous four-to-six-day walk with huts no more than seven hours hours apart. From the end of the road the track goes steadily upwards through beech forest before moving out on to the open, rolling Gouland Downs, an extensive plain of red tussock. And because the trail was originally cut for packhorses it is fairly easy going. In the half-light of dawn and dusk, with clouds banking up and rolling across the moody skies, this area has an eerie, almost sewer quality about it, earning It the title the 'Queer Country' from trampers.

At first glance the country seems to have a uniform cover of uninterrupted red tussock, but closer examination reveals an astonishing variety of plants. Almost 450 species have been identified on the Gouland Downs, including a number of rare or native species. In summer, 26 species of orchids and a profusion of native lilies, gentians and daisies contribute a wealth of variety and colour to the tussocklands.

The descent to the West Coast takes you down through some decidedly 'tropical' country. Tall trees hug the track and a profusion of tree ferns, nikau and smaller plants are to be found and, as a final dramatic contrast, the final stage of the track takes you along the wild West Coast beaches to Karamea.

Other points of interest here are the northernmost breeding colony of fur seals at Wekakura, north of the Heaphy River, and the presence of both long-tailed and short-tailed bats in the park. Kakapo were once common here, particularly in the Upper Karamea and Leslie valleys, but are now gone.

By far the most important area for wildlife in Golden Bay is the wildlife sanctuary on Farewell Spit. Large numbers of waders come here, some like the godwits and knots from as far away as Siberia. From Collingwood the road takes you over 22 kilometres of unsealed road to Port Puponga which gives access to the spit. About halfway down, the road leading off to the left will bring you to the Kaihoka Lakes Scenic Reserve on the West Coast which is noted for its huge carnivorous Paraphanta snails. Look but don't touch as these are strictly protected.

From the Puponga Farm Park it is possible to walk to the lighthouse at the end of Farewell Spit, but if the prospect of a 50-kilometre stroll doesn't excite you and you don't fancy giving your car a wash in the surf,  tours operate from Collingwood. These tours depends on the tides so check first for departure times.

Gannets, some of which originally came from White Island in the Bay of Plenty, started nesting on Farewell Spit in 1983 and about 70 nests were built here in their first season. This has now increased to about 400 pairs in four adjoining groups and the colony is the largest in the South Island - besides being the only one at sea level in New Zealand. This spectacular jump in numbers is attributed to the cessation of pelagic fisheries in Tasman and Golden bays and the consequent increase in surface fish.

Together with the gannets are nesting colonies of black-backed gulls and Caspian terns, but the white-fronted terns and red-billed gulls that were formerly here have been forced out by the more aggressive gannets.

Farewell Spit is yet another area where whale strandings regularly occur, no doubt because the curve of the bay acts as a natural trap. Among the whales that have come ashore here are minke whales, Scamperdown whales and pilot whales. Seven of the 12 strandings of the southern right whale dolphin have also been here. This beautiful dolphin is very distinctive as it lacks a dorsal fin. It is usually found in southern waters.

If you are heading south the Nelson Lakes National Park should not be missed. There is easy access to the lakes from Nelson along State Highway 6 to Kawatiri, a distance of 93 kilometres and an easy drive of 1½ hours. From Kawatiri a further 30 kilometres on Highway 63 will take you to St Arnaud, the entrance to the park.