After the Mirror Lakes the road passes
Cascade Creek and then Lake Gunn, a beautiful small lake set among bush and framed by the
western mountains. The road then climbs the Divide and from there stretching northward is
the Hollyford Valley, one of the most beautiful in New Zealand and the setting for one of
Fiordlands justifiably famous walks.
From here the road then descends steeply to the west, offering
tremendous views of the peaks and precipices of the upper Hollyford Valley, dominated by
the 2502-metre peak of Mt Christina. It continues westward up the Upper Hollyford to the
Homer Tunnel, emerging into the bush of the Cleddau Valley and then follows the river down
to Milford Sound.
Milford Sound offers the best fiord scenery in the Southern Hemisphere,
and there is not much in the Northern Hemisphere to rival it. A boat trip around the fiord
will enable you to take in the best of the other natural features of Milford Sound: the
snow-capped heights of Mt Pembroke; the Bowen Falls cascading from their high hanging
valley; and the Lion dropping sheer-sided into the fiord depths. Superb views of Mitre
Peak can be had from the head of the fiord, and fur seals are often to be spotted
sun-basking on the rocks. Also found here are the little blue penguin and the Fiordland
crested penguin whose colourful crown of yellow head-feathers, combined with bright
reddish-brown eyes, have earned it the sobriquet the 'punk-rocker' of the penguin world.
Running into Milford Sound is the Sinbad Valley and until only a few
years ago this was home to the last kakapo to survive on the mainland.
A fair bit of publicity was given to Don Mertons efforts to
obtain from the government the $30,000 necessary to catch the two remaining birds and move
them to safety, but this was to be in vain - by the time the money had been raised, the
birds had gone.
Piopiotahi in Milford Sound is the source of a soft, translucent stone
known as tangiwai, which was prized, like greenstone, by the Maori for use in ornaments
and they journeyed here from considerable distances to gather it. The name Piopiotahi
means 'one piopio' and is yet another poignant reminder of our lost birds.
There are other points of note for the naturalist in Milford Sound. The
white-eye (also known as the silver-eye or wax-eye) was first noticed here in 1832,
presumably not long after it arrived from Australia, and from here it began its northern
spread. By 1856 it had become established in Canterbury and Nelson; by 1863 it had reached
Wanganui; in 1865 it was observed in Auckland and then in the Bay of Islands in 1867.
Ten moose were liberated here after being imported from Canada in 1909.
Their descendants are probably still in Fiordland but their numbers are very low -
probably about 25 animals scattered over some 400 square kilometres. Only five are known
to have been shot by hunters, the first in 1929 and the last in 1952.