Left Kurow at 0830, headed back over the Waitaki Bridges and down to
Waimate. Bypassed the town to gravel bash up to the top of the
White Horse Lookout for an amazing view over the Plains, Waimate
Township, the fog offshore turned translucent by the still low sun, and
back towards the bare ranges. What a difference a bit of water
makes to this desert environment when you drive through an irrigated
area: you can see any little area the water misses.
"Half past tenses" were at Lime Lite Cafe, on the northern edge of
Timaru: they had great food, but like nearly all South Island cafes
they had their water too hot and over expressed the coffee. I
presume this is because nobody in the South Island knows what coffee
should taste like, but it's a constant disappointment during this
trip. At least now we have reached Christchurch I know can
find good coffee, and at the same price as the shockers we've been
paying for up till now.
We went inland via Geraldine and Rakaia Gorge, so as to go to
Windwhistle. Hell, with a name like that it should be a
compulsory stop. There is the usual Canterbury zephyr blowing
today, but it is not severe, except down the Rakaia Gorge, and yea! it
was verily whistling at Windwhistle. Once again Rusty had to hang
on tight, and his little velcro paws were white knuckling on the
signpost for his photo. Now we have to go and buy the threatened
Indian feed for the old and wrinkly.
Local tiki tour today. Supposed to be at the Outlaws' place (www.wildernesshouse.co.nz)
at Akaroa at around 1300,
so the deal is to take Jean the scenic way. First stop,
Sumner for a decent coffee, after our horror coffee tour of the
Southern Land. Then up the Port Hills via Evans Pass, planning to
head out via Lyttleton, when Jean says let's go to GodleyHead: well,
why not?
So we wind up leaving Godley at 1100, back through Lyttleton,
Governors Bay, Diamond Harbour, Port Levy. Roads only as wide as
one and a half Vectras, so very wary of oncoming, but glad there is
more tarseal than expected. Out of Port Levy for Pigeon Bay to
get on a road back to the Summit Road, whoops, fresh out of
tarseal. Vectra now brushing the bushes on both sides of the
road, scoria track rougher than anything we struck in Hakataramea, and
the clock ticking: nearly 40 kms to go at midday, and only averaging
about 25 per, not a good equation. Very fortunate to see the
camper van coming the other way kilometres from where we meet (he
should not have been there, they are banned on the road), so I had time
to get off the road and leave him room to pass - it's not unknown on
these (?)roads(?)
on Banks Peninsula to have to reverse downhill as much as 4 kilometres
to find room to pass. Finally hit Pigeon Bay and find, surprise,
surprise, tarseal running up to the Summit Road. Gun the Vectra,
then duck left quick away from the metal truck wrong-siding round a
corner at me, then back on the gas up to the Summit. Abandon the
Summit Road scenic bit till later, dive down the twirlies to
Duvauchelle and main road it into Akaroa at ten to one. Let pulse
rate settle....................
Jean's bro gave her the tuppeny-ha'penny tour of the B&B and the
gardens and vineyard, and there was a general inlaws/outlaws catchup
over lunch (thanks, Liz), and then we headed back to Ch-ch over the
loop of the Summit Road I had to miss when tempus had fugit,
then down to Little River, up Gebbies Pass back to the Port Hills
Summit, then down Dyers Pass and back to Riccarton via Cashmere, just
to have a look at how the other half live.
Vectra's back tyres are sitting just on legal, now, I would
say. I will make a final call on Friday at Havelock: straight to
Picton for the ferry, or via Blenheim for new rubber? (No
surprises, we have so far done more than 18 months worth of motoring
for our car in 12 days. Will be close to 5,000km from home before
we are in the queue for the ferry.)
Shot round to the old and wrinkly's for a cuppa and say ta-ta, then
got totally navigationally screwed getting out of Christchurch: moreso
then I have been for years. GPS would have sorted it if asked,
but I was seeing things I hadn't seen before, so why bother? (So
why take it with me, you may ask? Comes into its own when you
want gas, atm, cot for the night. Tell it what to seek, highlight
one, punch "GO": priceless!)
Therafter, no worries through the Hurunui (Culverden for smoko),
Lewis Pass, Springs Junction, Maruia, Murchison (lunch), St Arnaud,
Golden
Downs. Small hiccup where the road signs and the map disagreed at
Kohatu; just changed the scale on the satnav to check its map with my
paper one, then off down the Motueka River Valley to Motueka for the
night. Good on those lads that were racing the showers to get the
hops into the drying sheds in good order to make our beers, say
I. As for the arseholes that are still growing baccy: no higher
on the evolutionary scale than any other drug dealer. (Booze is
not a drug: it is medicine that makes being married tolerable to males.)
On the road by 0830, very pretty run across to Picton. Stopped
at Nelson, got Vince Martin's mates to check my rear tyres, they said
they were still legal, so back on the road. Smoko as always for
Bwucie at Pelorus Bridge.
As usual for Bwucie, also, Havelock to Picton was via Queen
Charlotte Drive, which had Jean going, "Wow!", a lot at the views, but
I was busy spinning the handlebars, so I didn't have time.
A very kind European lady inn a little red hatchback pulled left to
give me room (or maybe to let hubby out to take a photo, not sure
which) and shot straight off the edge of the road above a looong
drop. Bit of drama in their day. Tail-end charlie workshop
rules took over, protected the scene and people with my car, grabbed
hi-vis and threw it to Jean to use at the apex of the bend behind us,
and then with the help of Postman Pat (rural delivery postie) we picked
the car up and put it back on the road for them. (You'll find
them in the photo albums.)
Got into Picton at ten to twelve, shot into the terminal, changed
the booking, and got on the Kaitaki 1305 sailing instead of 0530 today,
here we are at home, rolled in at 0110 this morning. If
you book on Kaitaki, note that it is slower to load than the smaller
ships, a lot slower to get off if you are on the upper deck, and slower
across the Strait. Add at least an hour to Interislander's
arrival times for this vessel. (Especially
a buggar when it drops you into Wellywood's rush hour at ten to
five, instead of about ten to four: hence the very early/late time
home.)
5657.1kms door to door. Dollars for fuel?
Accomodation? Tucker? Who gives a ****, it was worth every
shekel of it.
Magic fortnight, wonder when work will let us do it again?

